Fionan Cronin-who's also at the party and is running around with his shirt off, swinging a broken samurai sword-got caught between the rocks and the waves and slammed five times before the jet-ski got to him.Įveryone sleeps over. Ireland has the heaviest surfing in the world, says Ollie you surf Pipeline in Hawaii and you ride back into a beach, but you surf Aileen's off the west coast of Ireland and you're charging at a 750-foot cliff, which isn't quite as forgiving as a nice stretch of sand. That might be because the sport is so young in Ireland, or because the area around here is so dangerous. In a way it's the opposite of the localism notorious in the surfing world.
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Pete's a part-time fireman, and it's hard to believe when he's got someone topless in a chokehold (that also, impressively, includes a wedgie), but he goes around the big wave spots handing out free life jackets to newcomers. They come across like Jackass at Sea, but the boys who surf the big shit can take care of themselves.
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"Is it ever too big that you don't go out?" I ask the boys. The west coast of Ireland is a lonely place for a girl, lonelier still when all the boys are married to the sea. In spite of the blow-dried hair and the little black dresses, which in this weather must be harder to get into than a wetsuit, the girls won't be enough to distract the boys from wrestling, fighting with samurai swords, and talking about surfing. Pete is getting married in a couple of months and is stocking up on drink for the wedding, so it's decided that the party will be at his house. Between them they've had their backs broken, hips cracked, and knees popped in weather that you wouldn't put a duck out in. Ollie O Flaherty and Pete Conroy are a toe-in team. Surfers, exhausted, arms like planks, will hang on in the water an extra 20 minutes, half an hour, in the hope that the rain will stop for just long enough that they can get changed in the parking lot without getting their dry clothes wet. You have to wear a suit all year round and a hood and boots for three quarters of that. It's also freezing, so those who do surf here have a slight touch of madness about them. Contained in those kits are a first aid bag, food, a phone, and whisky.
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Instead of waves breaking onto beaches they come crashing down on giant cliff faces that are so steep the boys have had to install safety kits in the crevices in case surfers get stranded. It's also not unheard of for people to surf waves that big. It's not unheard of for a wave to be 40 or 50-feet tall in these parts. The west coast of Ireland is one of the world's premier big wave locations. "OK, come party with us first and then we'll get you a wave," they said. I contacted some big wave surfers I found on Instagram and asked if they were still going out in the storm. There were long lines at the supermarkets, canoes made ready in front gardens, and DVDs rented by the shelf-load.